Exploring The Food Culture Of One Of The Least Visited Countries In The World: Tuvalu

Published: 17 March 2023

Could you point to Tuvalu on a World map?

Tucked away in the middle of the South Pacific Ocean between Australia and Hawaii, Tuvalu is “one of the smallest and most remote nations in the world“.

This obscure destination received no more than 2700 visitors back in 2018 and 3600 visitors in 2019. For comparison, France, one of the leading tourism destinations in the world, recorded close to 218 million international tourist arrivals back in 2019.

With only 25 square km in land area and a population of over 11 000, this tiny island nation remains rarely spoken about in the media except when it comes to climate change.

Tuvalu made headlines back in 2021 when Simon Kofe, Tuvalu’s Minister for Justice, Communication & Foreign Affairs, gave a COP26 speech standing thigh-deep in seawater off the coast of the Polynesian island.

According to a 2019 article published by The Guardian, “already, two of Tuvalu’s nine islands are on the verge of going under, the government says, swallowed by sea-rise and coastal erosion. Most of the islands sit barely three metres above sea level (…).”

That being said, not everyone agrees on this catastrophic consensus. Among the sceptics is Dr. Bjørn Lomborg, author and President of Copenhagen Consensus Center, who emphasizes studies challenging the perceptions of island loss.

Additionally, a 2022 study published by Tui and Fakhruddin highlights the concerns of locals about the impact of rising temperatures and ocean acidification on marine resources.

Did you know? Tuvalu achieved its independence in 1978, becoming the 38th member of the commonwealth. Funafuti, the capital of this tiny island archipelago, is home to the country’s only airport.

With very limited land and scarcity of fresh water, Tuvalu heavily relies on other countries, including “Australia, Japan, New Zealand and Fiji”, for a wide range of imported foods.

According to a 2019 research involving 120 men and women from different islands, a shift is taking place “from a balanced diet of local foods to a diet high in carbohydrates and protein with increased reliance on imported (processed and tinned) foods.”

Credit: https://livelearn.org/assets/media/docs/resources/Tuvalu_RAP_FoodSec_Lowres.pdf

In a 2022 paper published by Lin et. al., it was revealed that “almost 90% of the main island residents identified rice as their staple food, compared to around 50% in outlying islands whose diet comprised mainly of domestic foods such as swamp taro, taro, or breadfruit.” Additionally, “main island residents consumed chicken more frequently and fish less frequently than outlying islanders.”

A revival of traditional cooking practices is more important than ever amid growing obesity and diabetes rates. According to Tui and Fakhruddin (2022), “it was estimated that Tuvaluans spend one-third of their income on imported goods including chicken, rice, sugar, and biscuits.”

Traditional Tuvalu cuisine aims at highlighting local foods as opposed to imported (processed and tinned) foods.

This begs the question: what is the essence of this food culture floating in the middle of the Pacific? What does Tuvaluans’ culinary identity look like?

The Traditional Foods Eaten In Tuvalu

FISH is definitely one of the key staple foods of people in Tuvalu. In fact, the islanders have truly mastered the art of catching fish. In his book “The Material Culture of Tuvalu“, cultural anthropologist Gerd Koch explains that “men of Nukufetau have 47 different ways of catching 112 families and species of fish.”

This includes fishing with bare hands and hand nets as well as spear fishing and torch fishing. Fishing experts (“tautai“) usually gain their knowledge through generational transmission.

According to the New Zealand Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Trade, “the fisheries sector contributes up to 60% of government revenue”.

From flying fish and bonito to yellowfin tuna and kingfish, fish in Tuvalu can be enjoyed raw, sashimi-style (as served to The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge during their official 2012 visit) or cooked in coconut curries. Dishes such as TUNA COCONUT CURRY perfectly marry the creaminess of coconut with the flavourful bite of seafood.

To help keep their fish fresh, islanders rely heavily on salting, one of the oldest methods for fish preservation. Fish cured with dry salt can last for up to two months, as it inhibits the decomposing process by drawing moisture out of the flesh. According to 64-year-old Melesete Taoa of Funafuti, SALTED FISH is referred to as “ikamasima”.

CRAB also serves as an important source of protein for Tuvaluans, especially during stormy weather when fishing is impossible. Crab meat is commonly found simmering in coconut cream.

The locals also have a certain fondness for TURTLE EGGS and WILD BIRD MEAT. In fact, the island is home to 21 different species of bird, most of which are sea birds. Methods for catching these preys are multiple, from nets to snares. Species include wild pigeons, the brown noddy, the white-capped noddy and the Pacific golden plover.

Finally, regarding livestock species, Tuvalu relies mostly on local breeds of pigs, chickens and ducks.

COCONUT is another favourite that islanders cannot go without. It’s safe to say that, in Tuvalu, each and every part of the coconut is utilised, from the shell (which can be used as a food recipient) to the water, one of the islands’ most popular drinks.

Coconuts are used in nearly every dish on the island, including “Fausi“, the LOCAL BREAD. Local pastries are also usually sweetened with toddy, a type of wine made from palm leaves that acts as a substitute to sugar.

Moreover, the archipelago’s culinary heritage embraces GERMINATED COCONUTS, which offer an earthy flavour to a variety of soups and baked dishes.

First introduced by the Europeans after the discovery of the islands, BREADFRUIT is a very versatile fruit with a potato-like texture that is highly praised for its nutritional properties.

Naturally high in complex carbohydrates, breadfruit not only provides significant amounts of vitamins B1, B3, A and C, but also minerals such as potassium, calcium and magnesium. What’s more, 1/2 cup of breadfruit can provide up to 4g of complete protein (providing all of the essential amino acids).

According to a 2020 study, “breadfruit is a traditional staple crop from Pacific islands with the potential to improve worldwide food security and mitigate diabetes” due to its low glycemic index and nutrient density. There are hundreds of varieties of breadfruit that exist. Each breadfruit tree can provide up to 150 fruits per year.

Solomei” is a BREADFRUIT PUDDING that combines cooked and peeled breadfruit, coconut cream, flour (for thickening) and toddy syrup (for sweetening). It can be served with a coconut sauce and also pairs wonderfully with salt fish.

In Tuvalu, breadfruit can also be used to make soup, tuna bakes and a coconut dessert called “Fuaniu Mei tata” or “grilled breadfruit and coconut”. Some women in Vaitupu even eat grilled breadfruit with an onion and coconut cream dip called “Miti“.

Another well-known Polynesian staple is the root vegetable TARO. TARO LEAVES are used to wrap a variety of food preparations including “Palusami”, a very flavourful dish made using tender corned beef, onions and a coconut cream sauce. Taro leaves can also be used to make “Lautalo Fakalolo Mo Ika”, a hearty purée blended with shredded tuna and coconut cream.

Unlike other root vegetables, taro root can spoil rather quickly. To remedy this problem, Tuvaluans create a fermented paste using the corms. Taro leaves are known to be high in protein and dietary fibre.

Speaking of taro, have you ever heard of the “swamp taro”? Also known as PULAKA, this local crop, of great cultural significance to Tuvaluans, is grown in deep pits filled with fresh water and “maintained by families over generations“.

Pulaka corms are usually cooked in an earth oven in order to be peeled and ready for consumption.

Grated pulaka is used to make a sweet pudding dish called “Fekei Pulaka“. After being pounded, the grated pulaka is combined with red boiled coconut toddy to create a paste. Small balls are shaped using the paste before being wrapped in leaves and steamed for a few hours in an earth oven. Once cooked, the pulaka-coconut balls are drenched in coconut cream.

In the island of Niutao, women make “Tulolo“, a fragrant dish which combines cooked and peeled pulaka (beaten flat using a heavy wooden mallet) and heated coconut cream. Mashed pulaka is also incorporated in dishes such as “tagana pulaka” (a.k.a pulaka pie).

Locally grown, palm-like trees and shrubs known as PANDANUS are often seeked out for their leaves, fruits and roots (which can be eaten raw or steamed). Edible pandanus fruits and nuts, referred to as “fala” by the natives, contain significant amounts of B-carotene (a precursor to vitamin A), calcium and vitamin C.

PANDANUS LEAVES come in handy when wrapping “Fakapulu” (a bread made out of flour, coconut and toddy) before it is baked. Pandanus leaves also hold medical purposes and are commonly used to build structures and domestic items.

Tuvaluans also benefits from the nutrition of SWEET POTATOES, local FIGS and PAWPAW FRUITS. In Funafuti, pawpaw soup is prepared using the fruits of the pawpaw tree, flour, coconut cream and water. Small gardens in Funafuti also provide fresh produce such as pumpkins, cucumbers, cabbage, spinach, white radish, leek and celery.

When it comes to popular desserts on the island, BANANA FRITTERS (often flavoured with coconut) certainly come to mind. In fact, green bananas are an integral part of numerous desserts on the island including “Banana Lolo Delight” and “Banana Fudge“.

Large and flat, banana leaves are widely used to help prevent food from drying out during the cooking process.

Want to Cook Traditional Tuvalu Food At Home?

Tuvalu’s first international cookbook was created in 2022 as part of the Tuvalu Food Futures Project. The objective? To “help preserve (Tuvalu’s) indigenous food knowledge and cultural identity”.

The cookbook is titled “Tapa Aka Tou Alo”, which translated into “Come and have something to eat”. Funded by the Australian Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade, this colourful digital cookbook is filled with traditional recipes provided by local women from the Islands of Tuvalu. You can find the cookbook (available for free) here.

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