Published: 27 September 2022
The Basque Country has some of the most picturesque views I have ever seen. This autonomous community is located in-between parts of France and Spain and is renowned for its culinary talents, world-famous surfing and deeply-rooted traditions.
Most people might have heard of the imperial city of Biarritz, which lends its name to the Airport of Biarritz Basque Country. Biarritz is a very elegant seaside town that was once a whaling city populated by a few hundred people. Historically, the Basque were among the first to hunt whales commercially. Salted whale meat was eaten during the winter months, while the fat extracted from the bubbler used to help fuel oil lamps and lubricate machines. Whale oil was also used in soap-making and in the manufacturing of paint and wool.
During the 19th century, Biarritz became a very popular seaside resort for French, English, Russian and Spanish aristocrates, eager to try sea bathing. What is now known as the “Hôtel du Palais” actually used to be the imperial residence of former President of France Napoleon III and Empress Eugenie.
One of my favourite things to do in Biarritz is to visit the small tapas bars and restaurants located along the coast. There is nothing more relaxing than enjoying a drink and some snacks while basking in the sun and staring into the horizon. Places like Olatua and Eden Rock Café offer some of the most stunning views in town. There is also a number of paths nearby that allow you to take a stroll by the water.
In most, if not all, pastry shops in the Basque country, you will spot a round-shaped, golden-baked cake known as “gâteau basque”. This crunchy and buttery treat is usually filled with black cherry jam or pastry cream. I find it to be the best sweet-tooth treat right after breakfast.
The Basque country is also famous for its dairy industry with products ranging from yogurt made from sheep’s milk to an impressive selection of artisanal cheeses made from cow, sheep or goat’s milk. One of my first discoveries was this interesting, jelly-like treat I found in the yogurt section of the supermarket and labelled as caillé (which essentially means curdled). It’s basically coagulated sheep’s milk with a texture that kind of resembles a Junket pudding. It is very light, smooth and really fun to eat! You can choose between unsweetened, vanilla or (my favourite) chocolate.
As for the cheese, I can’t deny that I developed a particular fondness for the “Écrou du fromager”, a raw goat’s milk cheese covered in ashes that originally comes from the region of Normandy in northern France.
Biarritz benefits from its proximity to many distinct communities including Bayonne, Anglet and Bidart. Erretegia beach in Bidart is a magical and wild area that showcases some of the most beautiful panoramic views. This hidden gem is a great spot for surfing, boarding and long walks on the beach. However, I wouldn’t recommend swimming there since the waves can get pretty big and dangerous.
Want to take a dip? The Basque country is filled with kilometres upon kilometres of beautiful sandy beaches to enjoy. That being said, this area is known, unfortunately, for multiple cases of drowning and near-drowning due to the strong currents. If you are looking for calm bodies of water to swim in, I definitely recommend the plage du Port Vieux in Biarritz or the beach of Socoa in Ciboure. Otherwise, the Sables d’Or beach in Anglet and La Grande Plage in Biarritz are great places to enjoy a swim so long as you stay vigilant and avoid unsupervised hours. There is also an app called kalilo that you can download on your phone to stay informed on the weather and swimming conditions at beaches in the Basque Country.
Roughly 20 km from Erretegia beach is the relaxing little beach of Socoa. Socoa beach is situated in the small Bay of Saint-Jean-de-Luz-Ciboure and offers a beautiful view of the Fort de Socoa. The water there is extremely calm as it is sheltered from the wind and waves. In other words, it is a perfect spot for people of all ages to safely enjoy a swim. The snack bars on the beach are a great addition as well, allowing visitors to enjoy refreshing foods and drinks with their feet still in the sand.
At a 40 minutes driving distance East from Ciboure is the very quaint village of Espelette. There, the Espelette chili pepper is celebrated with much fervour. Garlands of hot peppers can be found hung on the front of typical Basque houses. How charming!
If your food has a kick to it, chances are you’ve just tried the famous Espelette pepper. Espelette peppers are aromatic and mildly hot, with a maximum grade of only 4,000 on the Scoville scale. They are used is many different preparations, from fish stew and cheese to cookies and chocolate bars.
No trip to the Basque country would be complete without a stop at Donostia a.k.a San Sebastian. This Spanish city is the ultimate foodie destination with a great balance of urban and nature. It offers some stunning landscapes and, most importantly, some amazing food! In fact, San Sebastian is known for having one of the highest concentrations of Michelin stars per capita in the world.
San Sebastian has its own style of tapas called pintxos which are essentially small finger foods commonly served at bars and taverns. Needless to say that there is an abundance of pintxo bars and restaurants to choose from as you walk down the cobblestone streets of the Old Town.
If you are looking for a spot with good food at a good price, I highly recommend checking out the restaurant/bar called “Gandarias”. The food at this place is not only beautiful but also extremely delicious and fresh. You can’t leave the Basque country without trying these!
My personal favourites are the goat cheese with a sweet glaze, the anchovy-egg-shrimp combo and anything with smoked salmon on it (Disclaimer: once you try these, you will start craving them. You have been warned!).
San Sebastián is also home to the first museum devoted to natural sciences in Spain. The San Sebastian aquarium showcases a perfect mix of history, storytelling and exploration of marine life with its 360º tunnel. Additionally, for a whopping 300 euros per person, the aquarium offers visitors the opportunity to swim in a large tank with 7,000 fish, including two sharks. It doesn’t get more immersive than that!
For a sweet pick-me-up, my go-to spot is always the artisanal pastry shop “Pastelería Oiartzun“. This place is loved by locals and tourists alike and has a very impressive selection of cakes, pastries and chocolates to choose from. Popular desserts tend to sell out quickly throughout the day so you don’t want to show up too late! The tower of meringue (rasca del cielo) is a beast to look at and to devour! They also serve a really delicious punch (almond marzipan cake) and apple tart.
The Basque coast is one of the hottest spots for surfing. In fact, Biarritz is considered as Europe’s historic surfing capital. But have you ever heard of the beautiful seaside town of Anglet?
Anglet, sometimes referred to as “Little California”, fully embraces and celebrates its surf culture. There are a bunch of surf schools in the area and it’s not uncommon to see photographers with enormous lenses trying to capture some epic stunts in action at Les Sables d’Or beaches.
There is even a surfers walk-of-fame that was inaugurated in 2018 with sealed footprints of famous surf culture personalities such as Nat Young, Tom Curren and Joël de Rosnay. The footprints are adorned with a bronze plaque designed by the artist Fabien Cayeré and can be found all over the main boardwalk.
The Sables d’Or in Anglet is a great place to enjoy a fun day at the beach. Beach volleyball, ice cream stands and rows of restaurants all help to animate its beautiful sandy beaches. It is also worth noting that the Sables d’Or is wheelchair accessible.
For a spectacular view of the city, definitely stop by the Love Tower! Made out of wood and metal, this eye-catching structure, created by Japanese artist Tadashi Kawamata, offers a spectacular sight of Anglet’s Chambre d’Amour, day and night!
The Love Tower has been a part of the community’s scenery since the 2018 edition of the Anglet-Côte Basque International Contemporary Art Biennial, an open-air exhibition that showcases unpublished and ephemeral works by established artists. Luckily for us, Kawamata’s art seems to have taken a liking to this neighbourhood and is not about to leave anytime soon.
Last but not least, it would be a crime not to mention the breathtaking sunsets that appear every evening on the horizon. Stop by any beach in Anglet at the end of the day to enjoy the amazing free show that nature generously offers.
One of the rare beauties of this area is its ability to offer a wide variety of activities and events without compromising its stunning natural setting. You can definitely tell from the beautiful foliage everywhere that this area gets a good amount of rain year-long!
There are so many other beautiful places that I didn’t get a chance to mention that are also definitely worth checking out like St-Jean-de-Luz, Irati forest, Bilbao and Vitoria-Gasteiz in Spain.
While exploring the Basque country, you really don’t feel like you are in France, nor in Spain. It truly feels like its own special world. And what a lovely place to be!
