Published: 6 April 2022
Know any Persian desserts? A very curious traditional sweet hides inside this dainty box covered in an earthy gold leopard print.
Far different from most nougats I’ve sampled, this firm and chewy candy is said to be bursting with flavour and crunch from the roasted pistachios it contains.
“Gaz” or Persian nougat is a traditional sweet that originated 450 years ago in a city in central Iran called Isfahan.
To be quite frank, the first time I opened this alluring box, I was taken aback by what I found… a vacuum-sealed package filled with loose, unknown white powder that covered several coin-shaped nougats dotted with nuts.
After dusting off the excess powder, I discovered a delightful medley of flavors. I could taste a very faint hint of rose mixed in with the fragrant and crunchy roasted pistachios. The nougat was firm yet chewy, melting in the mouth similarly to a marshmallow.
What a heavenly taste! But I was still puzzled by the nature of the white powder spreading all over my fingertips. “Icing sugar?” I wondered. A quick taste ruled that out as it wasn’t sweet. It actually felt a little starchy, almost like some sort of flour or cornstarch. Stumped, I carefully flipped the package around for more intel on the unidentified substance that started spreading all over the counter.
“Meraj Loqmeel Gaz with Flour containing 40% pistachio kernel with manna (Taranjebin extract)”.
So it IS flour! Wait…aren’t we supposed to avoid eating raw flour? Before I knew it, my browser window was flooded with tabs of Iranian food blogs, “gaz” recipes and forums with users debating the contents of this unusual delicacy.
A search on google image quickly revealed numerous brands marketing their Persian nougat with a phrase along the lines of “packed in Flour in the Traditional Way“. Maybe the traditional way implies the flour being treated somehow? After over an hour of research, I surrender to the idea that this flour enigma would remain somewhat of a mystery for the time being.
Obviously, it makes sense to use some sort of starch in order to keep the nougats from sticking together. In a similar fashion, some nougats of European origins are wrapped up in edible rice paper to prevent them from sticking to each other, making them easier to portion and share.
Next, I scouted out the ingredients: “pistachio, glucose syrup, sugar, egg white, manna, rose water and water.” Interesting! So this nougat doesn’t contain honey like Italian or French nougat.
Hold on a second…what in the world is “manna (taranjebin extract)”? Definitely haven’t seen this one on labels at my local grocery store!
According to a 2013 article published in The American Journal of Pharmacological Sciences, Taranjebin or Persian manna “is a semi liquid resinous sweet substance which appears on the leaves and branches of the manna producing camel’s thorn.” “The word etymology of Taranjebin shows it is derived from the Persian word “Tar-angabin” that means wet honey.”
Interestingly enough, the term “manna” appears many times in all three Holy scriptures: The Torah, The Bible and The Qur’an.
“The people of Israel called the bread manna.
It was white like coriander seed and tasted like wafers made with honey.“
Exodus, 16:31
“O Children of Israel! We delivered you from your enemy, and We made a covenant with you on the right side of the Mount, and We sent down to you Al-Manna and quails”
The Qur’an, 20:80
A “food miraculously supplied to the Israelites in their journey through the wilderness,” is one of the definitions provided by Merriam-Webster.
A 2010 The New York Times article titled “Ancient manna on modern menus” explains: “most of this manna is either dried plant sap extruded from tiny holes chewed out by almost invisible bugs, or a honeydew excreted by bugs that eat the sap.”
Persian manna has been documented to have laxative properties and being used for a variety of ailments in traditional medicine.
Final thoughts
I really LOVED this food experience! Persian nougat is mildly sweet with a satisfying crunch, exceptionally fragrant and deliciously addictive! A word of caution, however, for pregnant women. I would advise asking a health professional first or simply avoiding these treats during pregnancy because of the potential risks linked with raw flour consumption.
Prices and quality for Persian nougat vary depending on a number of factors including nut to nougat ratio. If you find 40% of nuts like this brand, you’ve got yourself a good one!
It is also worth noting that saffron and cardamom are spices that can commonly be found in some varieties of Persian nougat.
For optimal storage, keep your nougat in a cool and dark place. Enjoy it with a nice warm cup of Persian tea!
Sources:
Arnold, David. “Ancient Manna on Modern Menus.” The New York Times, 2010, https://www.nytimes.com/2010/06/09/dining/09manna.html?smid=url-share
Biblegateway.com, https://www.biblegateway.com/passage/?search=Exodus%2016%3A31&version=NIV
Merriam-webster.com, https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/manna
Quran.com, https://quran.com/taha/80-100?translations=131%2C203
Ramezany, Farid, Narges Kiyani, and Masoumeh Khademizadeh. “Persian Manna in the Past and the Present: An Overview.” American Journal of Pharmacological Sciences 1.3 (2013): 35-37.
